Tag: north carolina

April 30, 2017

OBX Great Island Adventure

We have been loosely planning this trip for nearly 3 years. We knew we would have to have a 4wd vehicle capable of moving around on the sand roads on the island. Gearing up for the trip was a big part of the fun. We were prepared and did not lack a thing.

Explore the Undeveloped Islands of Cape Lookout

Our cabin from this Google earth view is the one on the left.

The Davis Ferry, when we arrived had only one ferry that can handle 2 vehicles. We headed over as the only vehicle and came back with another pickup truck. Chugga-chugga-chugga.

Once we got underway on the ferry, the chop was rough. The truck rocked back and forth and the ride was somewhat exciting. The trip is about 40 minutes from the mainland to the island.

We rented one of the larger cabins on the Great island National Seashore.

The surf was wild on Monday. Some of the wave were up to 9 feet high.

Cathy kept us very well organized and fed. She is one of the most adaptable woman I have ever known and am so happy to have her as my constant companion.

This is our indoor rest spot. We could look out the windows to see the shorline and the crashing surf. The constant, powerful rolling of the waves is hypnotic.

Our 100 watt solar panel kept the 12 volt deep cycle marine battery charged. We were able to keep out mobile devices fully charged the entire time we stayed. With little drain on the battery, even after recharging a laptop, the solar panel gave the battery a full charge within a few short hours.

Here you see both phones and a laptop being charged at once. Charging these up to full charge only drops the battery to about 85%. It takes only a few hours to bring the battery up to a full charge. I spent about $200 for the folding 100watt solar panel and around $80 for the deep cycle marine battery. Throw in another $40 for the battery box, wiring, fuse, switches, and receptacle and you have a great power system for a little over $300.

Since we could easily recharge our laptops, we watched a full feature movie each night with video files stored on a standalone USB drive. This feature was “7 Years in Tibet” with Brad Pitt on the night this photo was taken.

The propane stove was very workable and much more convenient than a Coleman stove or propane burner alone. Cat made biscuits and toast several meals. It worked out very well. Pictured is the same percolator pot that Cathy’s parents used when camping.

With the exception of a handful of 4WD vehicles on the beach, it was practically deserted. The peaceful privacy was wonderful. It’s fun to finally let the stress go and hear yourself think (or not).

The Lodge cast iron grill worked out well. I started the charcoal with pieces of oak kindling and the constant ocean breeze had the coals white hot in minutes. I’m still working on getting the grill well seasoned. I purchased 3 split fire bricks to allow it to sit on most any surface.

The mornings were inspiring and, again, very peaceful with only the crashing waves breaking the silence along with the numerous waterfowl. The pictures above and below are sunsets over the sound facing the mainland. The small structure is where you can place a generator which allows the cabin to be fully lighted.

Sunrise is beautiful over the dunes facing the sea.

The 12 mile ride at 15-20 MPH to the Cape Lookout Lighthouse was a bit of an adventure on its own. This is where we realized that a 4WD vehicle is a must to traverse the back road.

After a 12 mile trek on the one lane sand back road, we finally made it to the Cape Lookout Lighthouse. It was a bit rainy and overcast. We saw less than a handful of people.

Some folks were catching fish, but the surf was so rough that the fishing was not optimum. It was still fun to cast a line out into the raging surf. We spoke with one fellow that told us that someone in his party had landed a 50 pound black drum and it took him 30 minutes to pull it to shore. There are fish out there.

The refrigeration situation was excellent. The RTIC 45 quart cooler kept an 11″x11″ block of ice for 7 entire days. This is phenomenal in my opinion. I used a large commercial cole slaw container to freeze the block of ice. It takes up half the cooler, but one half gives lots of space for long term meat and dairy storage. The utility tables were great for placing our food items, misc. gear. Although there is nothing fancy about the cabin interior, it was very adequate and kept us dry during the stormy Monday when there were gale force winds blowing outside. You have to enjoy camping to enjoy staying in these cabins.

By Tuesday, we were soaking up the sunshine on the beach. We had a great time on the Great Island.

Shot of the truck bed as we began loading up before we headed west for the mountains. Loading and unloading is the hardest part of it all, but it is very economical and it’s a good workout. We believe this sort of camping is only done in a moderate climate since it does take some work.

Helpful tips for those who may want to stay on the Great Island National Seashore on the Outer Banks of North Carolina:

Bring fresh water. The water is potable, but not as fresh as the water most of us normally enjoy. We took 12 gallons and used maybe 6-7 for about 4 days.
There is cell service on the island, so don’t think you are completely isolated. The reception can be sketchy though.
A 4 wheel drive vehicle is necessary in my opinion. Many folks drop their air pressure down to 20 pounds. I left mine at 40 pounds. The park ranger told me that since the sand was still wet after a great deal of rain, I’d be fine. I never had any issues. Of course, the Nito Terra Grappler G2 tires are excellent and they handled it with no sweat. Keep in mind that if you can’t talk someone into getting you out of a fix in the sand, there are only 2 services that will come out and pull you out at a minimum charge of $500-$800. Take a recovery strap rated for your vehicle, D-rings, shovel, and boards to help get you out of a sandy rut.
Bring books, games, cards, and other things to keep you entertained, especially when it rains which it did during part of our stay. We brought our own power system and portable devices and that helps too. Fishing, cooking, and walking along the beach take up a lot of time as well as a few naps too.
Your fishing bait will not stay fresh very long unless you keep if constantly iced down and even then, since it is uncooked seafood, it won’t last long. So keep that in mind. There is no bait for sale on the island, only ice and fuel. Fish will strike on artificial bait.
The cabins are very basic, so don’t expect too much. There is a LOT of salt and sand to deal with. Bring whisk brooms, bench brushes, etc. and expect to do a lot of sweeping. We had a piece of astroturf rug and a woven rough rug for indoors and that makes a BIG difference in tracking sand. There are a lot of charcoal remnants here and there mixed in with the sand in spots, so expect your feet to get fairly dirty over the course of a day. The shower is great, bring a small scrub brush to get your feet clean in the cabin. The stall shower in our cabin was very workable.
Make sure you bring a good cooler or you will be purchasing $5 bags of ice every few days. I can’t say enough about our RTIC cooler (a YETI clone) which worked extremely well for keeping out highly perishables.
Prepare to sleep well. The mattresses on the bunk beds are a bit deceiving. There are much “cushier” than you would first believe. Cat brought mattress pads and sheets as well as our sleeping bags. It was very comfortable. After a full day of activity here, you pass out when your head hits the pillow. All you hear are the white noise of the crashing waves pounding on the beach.
I would NOT advise coming here in the summer unless you have a generator and portable air conditioner. Spring and Fall are the best times even though the storms are usually more prevalent during those time periods. In late April, the nights were in the mid 50s F. and up to the low 70s F. during the day. Perfect temperatures for camping like this.
Finally, a place where you can hear yourself think. Have FUN!!

PS – Head to the nearest carwash after returning to the mainland. You’ll want to get as much of that salt and sand off the vehicle as soon as possible.

July 26, 2015

Ocracoke Island Charts, Maps, and Routes

Routes to Ocracoke

Ocracoke Village

Beach Access Fishing Map / Directions

Lodging Direction Map

Ocracoke TIDE CHARTS

June 8, 2015

Harkers Island – The Last Great Place

Billed as “The Last Great Place”, the Down East section of the Outer Banks is a “hidden in plain site” locale. Much of the area has been saved from an overabundance of tourist attractions and over-the-top commerce. The history of the area brings to light why the area is as it is. Seafood is available in abundance and the people are friendly. When I say friendly, I mean they tolerate outsiders. Harkers Island was not even connected to the mainland until the mid 50s. They have their own accent that sounds a bit like Australian or Elizabethan English with some southern tones mixed in. It is charming.

Mr. Leeby Willis (pronounced lee-bee) built and operated the scallop house next to the house where we stayed during our visit to Harkers Island. He was born and grew up on the island. We first met him shortly after we arrived on the island and he carried a binder of photos, stories, and poems related to the island and the area. He was full of stories and he enjoyed sharing them.

Shortly after crossing the Harkers Island bridge you are enveloped in the nostalgic sense that you have moved back in time. You get a sense that the world has slowed down to an enjoyable pace. There are signs of days gone by as you see the old relics of boats, nets, and fish houses that have been abandoned for years. Harkers Island has only a few stores and Billy’s Hardware and Grocery seems to be the one that is most popular. They say that if they don’t have it, you don’t need it. Everything from a fresh meat counter to all sorts of fishing tackle and bait is found at Billy’s. There are only a half dozen restaurants on the island. All of them seem to be frequented by the locals. Visitors are very welcome, but you feel like you have entered another domain where you are the outsider. Harkers Island was once a thriving fishing village. The waters are rich with life, especially when the waters warm as summer arrives. This is a place where you can relax, enjoy the food, sights, and sounds of yesterday. There are no fast food restaurants, no big box stores. You have to travel up the coast to Beaufort to find those.

Looking across the sound about a mile or so away, you can see the lighthouse on Cape Lookout. The beam of bright light flashes past your eyes every 15 seconds. The gulls are ever present as they call in varying degrees. Out on the tip of Harkers Island is the National Park Service Visitor Center at Shell Point. Small, passenger-only ferry boats take visitors out to Shackleford Banks and Cape Lookout. The ferry ride is not inexpensive as it costs $15 one way to each of the outer bank islands. So, it is best to start early in the morning with plenty of food and drink packed up for a day’s visit to each of them. There is no food or drink at either of the islands. Both have restroom facilities, but no garbage cans. You pack out what you pack in.

A ferry can be taken to the south end of Shackleford Banks from Beaufort. The south end is closer to the restroom facilities on Shackleford Banks. The ferry “banks” on the sandy beach (there is no dock) and you disembark onto the shoreline of the island. Should you take the ferry from Shell Point on Harkers Island, you will be dropped off at the north end of the island. There are well over 100 wild Spanish mustangs on the island. They move around the island and most of the time you need to hike to see them. When we landed, we walked along the south side shore and over to the ocean side. We were told that the south end of the island had the most shells. We were not misdirected, there were more Whelk shells than we could possibly carry in excellent condition. The island is great for shelling. The horse are a bit shy and, by law, you are not supposed to get any closer than 500 feet of them. They are very beautiful in the pristine island setting and fun to watch as they frolic around the island on the numerous trais that they have created over time. Our visit was in May and there were no more than a dozen people on the island at the time. There is a fair amount of hiking to be done to see much of the island. The island is clean of litter and is a wonderfully natural place to spend time in.
Cape Lookout is also a short $15 one way ferry ride. The ferry ties up to a dock and you climb up the a ladder to get to the top of the dock. For $15 more, a 4 wheel drive truck will take you out to the Cape Lookout point. Unless you are interested in the 3 1/2 mile walk to the point, the $15 is well spent. The point is amazing. There is no way to actually describe the experience. The ocean seems to be all around you at the point. It is a desolate stretch of sand that defies the imagination. We took folding chairs and a lunch with us and spent several hours there. It is a fascinating place that can only be experienced. It is like you are at the very edge of the earth.

Beaufort is about a half hour’s drive from Harkers Island heading south. It is where you go to get major shopping items and seafood. It is a very historic town with various museums and shops along the waterfront. The ferry to Shackleford Banks is also located on the waterfront. We stopped in at the FishTowne Seafood Market to pickup some fish and shrimp to cook. The shrimp was big, fresh and relatively inexpensive. Although there were all manner of fish species on the iced down table, we opted for some flounder filets that were ready to cook. The great thing is that all of the seafood was fresh. These markets are located all over the area.

About a 45 minute drive north, Cedar Island Ferry will take you (and your car) on a 2 1/2 hour cruise to Ocracoke Island. Ocracoke is for tourists. It is famous as an area where Blackbeard the Pirate used to harbor. There are plenty of lodging rentals, restaurants, and fishing tackle shops there. There is also a camping area. It is a bit crowded even in the off season, but the beaches are very nice and it has an easy going atmosphere to the island. The populated area of the island which is very close to the ferry dock is the most densely populated area and is quite small. Heading north on the island takes you to beach access points and the camping area. If you get a Park Service 4 wheel drive permit and have a 4 wheel drive vehicle, you drive along the miles of beach.